Prepare the lye solution. Wear your gloves, goggles, and mask, and work in a well-ventilated area. Then, using a digital scale, measure the lye and water separately in non-reactive containers. Next, slowly add the lye to the water (never the other way around) and stir until completely dissolved. The solution will heat up due to a chemical reaction, so be cautious of the heat and fumes. Set the lye solution aside in a safe place to cool to about 90-100°F.
Melt and measure the oils: Measure all oils (olive, coconut, shea butter, and castor oil) into a pot or heat-safe container. Then, gently melt the oils over medium-low heat until fully combined. Once melted, remove from heat and allow the oil mixture to cool to 90-100°F.
Add the grapefruit juice. Make sure the lye solution and oils are at similar temperatures (within 10 degrees of each other), around 90-100°F. Then, carefully add the grapefruit juice to the lye solution. Stir gently. The solution may turn orange—this is completely normal.
Blend the lye solution with the oils. Pour the lye solution into the melted oils slowly. Use a stick blender to mix until the soap mixture reaches trace—a pudding-like consistency where the mixture leaves a trail when the blender is lifted.
Add the color, fragrance, and zest. At trace, stir in the grapefruit zest and essential oil by hand. If using colorants, blend them with a small amount of oil before adding them for a smooth distribution. Pour the soap batter into your prepared mold immediately, smoothing the surface as needed.
Gel phase. Preheat your oven to its lowest setting (around 170°F or “warm”). Turn off the oven and place your soap mold inside for about 1 hour. This step encourages the gel phase, which deepens the soap’s color and texture. Leave the soap in the oven to set for 24 hours, undisturbed.
Unmold and cure. Carefully remove the soap from the mold and cut it into bars. Then, allow the bars to cure in a well-ventilated space for at least 2 weeks. For a harder, longer-lasting bar, extend curing to 4 weeks.