How to Make the Best Cold Process Soap: Super Moisturizing and High Lather

This cold-process shower soap recipe is the best ever. It makes a moisturizing yet cleansing bar with tons of lather. Please read below the recipe for tips on substations, safety, and storage, as well as step-by-step photos. If you’re brand new to soapmaking, there’s a lot to learn! You’ll want to watch the video and read the whole post before you start.

The Best Cold Process Soap Recipe

A super bubbly homemade soap with great cleansing and moisturizing properties. Once you try this recipe, it will be all you want to use!
Prep Time 30 minutes
curing time 1 day
Total Time 1 day 30 minutes

Equipment

Ingredients 

  • 11 ounces coconut oil
  • 9 ounces olive oil
  • 9 ounces palm oil
  • 2 ounces sweet almond oil
  • 4 ounces castor oil
  • 4 ounces avocado oil
  • 2 ounces mango butter
  • 5.83 ounces lye
  • 10-15 ounces water
  • 3 tablespoons fragrance oil for a strong scent, vary this to your preferences
  • 2 teaspoons sodium lactate optional, for a harder bar
  • colorant or mica optional

Instructions 

  • Make lye water. Using a digital scale, measure out the lye and water in separate glass containers.  Combine them by adding the lye to the water.  (Remember: snow floats on the lake.). Stir until the lye dissolves.  The temperature will shoot up.  Place this in a safe place to cool.
    pyrex cup with lye on top
  • Melt oils and butters. While the lye solution is cooling, measure out the oils and butters and combine them in a large stainless pot.  Melt them over low heat and heat them up to 130-140 degrees.  Set them aside to cool.
    oil and butter in stainless steel pot
  • Let cool. After 2 hours, check the temperature of both solutions.  They should be around 110 degrees.  (A range of 100-120 is fine.). If not, allow them to cool longer.
  • Prep for mixing. Prepare your mold and measure out any fragrance or color you will be adding.  (For best blending of colors, mix some color into a few drops of melted oils.). If using sodium lactate, add it to the lye water at this time.
  • Blend to trace. Pour the water and lye solution into the pot with the melted oils.  Blend with a stick blender until thin trace is reached.  The soap batter will noticeable thicken and a trail of soap will sit on top of the liquid rather than immediately sinking in.  (This will take about 1 minute.). Add the color and fragrance and stir by hand.
    stick blender combining water and oils
  • Pour in mold. Immediately pour the soap batter into the mold.  Place in a turned-off oven or wrap with blankets to insulate the soap.
    pouring pink soap batter into loaf mold
  • Cut bars and let cure. After 24 hours of curing, unmold and cut into bars.  The bars may seem slightly soft but will harden considerably during the curing process. Allow to cure at least 3 weeks in a well-ventilated place.
    cut bars on tea towel

Video

Notes

Follow standard soap making safety guidelines!
stack of pink soap bars

Cold Process Soap Tips

  • Working with lye is dangerous: You must be in a well-ventilated, distraction-free workspace. Wear goggles and gloves to protect yourself and keep kids and pets away.
  • You must follow soapmaking recipes exactly: If you’re going to make changes or substitutions, you must first run the recipe through a lye calculator and accept that you’ve created your own recipe at this point.
  • Castor oil: the “secret” to big bubbles. Don’t substitute!
  • Using Different Oils: Experimenting with different oils such as sunflower oil, apricot kernel oil, and jojoba oil can change the fatty acid profiles and properties of your soap. Each oil contributes unique characteristics to the final product. You can find out more in my soap oils properties chart.
  • Incorporating Butter: Adding butter like shea butter, cocoa butter, and kokum butter can enhance the moisturizing properties of your soap. These ingredients are a great idea for making a luxurious bar.
  • Choosing the Right Fragrance: Fragrance oils are a fantastic way to personalize your soap. Remember to choose high-quality fragrance oils to ensure the scent lasts a long time.
  • Adding Extras: Poppy seeds, flower petals, kaolin clay, and colloidal oatmeal can add texture and benefits to your soap. These are especially popular in cold-process soap recipes.
  • Safety First: Always wear safety glasses, long sleeves, and gloves when handling lye. Working in a well-ventilated area is crucial for safety.
  • Immersion Blender: Using an immersion blender can speed up the saponification process and help you reach the trace faster. This tool is essential for any serious soapmaker.
ingredients on counter
  • Coconut Oil: A staple in soap making, coconut oil provides a rich lather and hardness to the soap. It is highly cleansing and can strip away excess oil, making it ideal for oily skin types.
  • Olive Oil: Known for its moisturizing properties, olive oil makes the soap smoother and less drying. It’s great for sensitive skin and contributes to the soap’s gentle cleansing ability.
  • Palm Oil: Adds hardness to your soap bars, helping them maintain shape and last longer. It also contributes to lather quality, though it’s important to source sustainably due to environmental concerns.
  • Sweet Almond Oil: This oil is excellent for its conditioning properties, adding softness and an elegant feel to the soap. It’s suitable for all skin types, especially dry skin.
  • Castor Oil: A unique ingredient that boosts lather, making your soap rich and creamy. It’s also hydrating and helps draw moisture to the skin.
  • Avocado Oil: Loaded with vitamins and minerals, avocado oil enhances the moisturizing power of your soap. It’s particularly good for dry and sensitive skin.
  • Mango Butter: Provides a conditioning and moisturizing effect, making the soap more luxurious. Mango butter is rich in antioxidants and can help to soothe and soften the skin.
  • Lye (Sodium Hydroxide): Essential for saponification, the chemical reaction that creates soap. Lye must be handled with care, but it is completely safe once the soap has cured.
  • Water: Acts as a solvent for the lye and helps to control the saponification process. Distilled water is best to prevent any impurities from affecting the soap.
  • Fragrance Oil: Adds a personal touch to your soap with your favorite scents. Quality fragrance oils are designed to be skin-safe and can significantly influence the sensory experience of using your soap.
  • Sodium Lactate (optional): A salt solution that makes the soap bar harder and easier to unmold. While optional, it’s beneficial for achieving a smoother finish.
  • Colorant or Mica (optional): These additives bring vibrant colors to your soap, enhancing its visual appeal. They can be used to achieve a wide range of artistic effects, like swirls or layers.

Storage Instructions

Once fully cured, homemade soap should be stored in a dry, well-ventilated spot. I like to put it in shoe boxes in the closet with layers of newspaper in between the bars.

While it is in use, use a soap saver to keep your bar dry. It will last much longer.

Expert Suggestions

Cold Process vs. Hot Process: While this blog post focuses on cold-process soapmaking, hot-process soap is another method worth exploring. Hot process soap can be used sooner and often has a more rustic look.

Creating Your Own Recipes: Once you’re comfortable with the basics, try creating your own recipes. Using a lye calculator is essential to ensure the correct lye discount and balance of fatty acids.

Avoiding White Film: Sometimes a white film, known as soda ash, can form on your soap. This is harmless but can be avoided by spraying the surface with cool water or covering your soap to prevent air exposure.

Storing Soap: Store your soap in a cool, dry place. Using a soap mold that allows air circulation is helpful for proper curing.

Understanding Fatty Acid Profiles: Different oils have different fatty acid profiles which impact the hardness, lather, and moisturizing properties of your soap. Experimenting with various oils can help you create a soap with great properties.

Common Issues and Fixes

What kind of mold did you use?

A 10-inch silicone mold. It’s my favorite for most soaps.

Why is my soap too soft?

If your soap is too soft, it might need more time to cure. Adding sodium lactate or using oils with higher stearic acid content can also help create a harder bar.

What type of color is this pink?

It is a pink mica from Nurture Soap. You can find it here.

Can I use this recipe in individual cavity molds?

Yes, absolutely. I’d recommend using sodium lactate since it can be a bit soft when unmolding it.

What are the best soap fragrances?

This is a 100% personal preference (except for the fact that florals are more difficult to work with). My personal favorites are Comfort and Joy from Nurture Soap and Mango Mango from Brambleberry.

Will this recipe work with swirls or embeds?

Yes! I used to swirl it all the time before I got too lazy.

Can I resize this?

You sure can. You’ll need the following percentages:

Coconut Oil: 26.83%
Mango Butter: 4.88%
Olive Oil: 21.95%
Palm Oil: 21.95%
Sweet Almond Oil: 4.88%


Enter them into a soap calculator with the desired size of your batch and it will give you the correct amounts.

What is the gel phase?

The gel phase is a part of the saponification process where the soap heats up and becomes translucent. This can help create a smoother, more uniform bar.

Can I use essential oils in this recipe?

Yes, essential oils can be used as a natural alternative to fragrance oils. Just be sure to use skin-safe essential oils and follow recommended usage rates.

What is a good recipe for new soap makers?

This recipe is a great way to start, but if it’s your first time, you might want to try a more basic recipe with fewer oils. Cold process soapmaking can be complex, so starting simple is a good idea.

Why do I need to use distilled water?

Distilled water is free from impurities that can affect the chemical reaction during the saponification process. Using distilled water ensures a more consistent result.

More Great Cold Process Soap Recipes:

As you continue soap-making journey, remember the importance of safety, stay patient and careful, and enjoy of crafting something with your own hands.

picture of smiling female

By Katie Shaw

Katie lives in Virginia with her husband, three daughters, a chocolate lab, and over thirty chickens. She loves creating simple tutorials for sourdough, bread, and soap. Her recipes, articles, and YouTube videos reach millions of people per year.

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220 Comments

  1. Hi mam…. Am in india. Am a beginner of the soap making… Ur vedio is very useful… I willtry for the recipe… pls tell this recipe suitable for all skin stypes or dry skin only… Ur receipes are simple and easy… Pls upload the beginner receipe vedios… Thank you mam

  2. Hi! Thank you for sharing your wonderful soap recipes. Do you have a soap recipe for oily skin? My husband likes Dr Bronner’s peppermint soap because his skin is so oily. I’d love to make something for him. Thank you.
    -Heather

    1. hi heather! I don’t have one specifically for oily skin, but I should work on one because my husband is the same! as a general rule, higher coconut oil and lower super fat (around 5%) will be better for oily skin.

    1. they are generally a good substitution for each other. to be extra sure, you’ll need to run the recipe through a lye calculator with shea butter

  3. Hi Katie…Is this soap making going to be moisturizing for skin…I find that many natural soaps dry out my skin, strip off my natural oils…I want the soap to feel nice and moisturizing on my skin….will this recipe to that for my skin? thanks

  4. I am super excited to get in to soap making! I have a lot of beeswax. Is there anything in this recipe I could substitute it for?

  5. I feel only adding 3 Table spoons of F/O is to little it wont hardly smell all.. maybe 4% to 5% would be better did yours smell much for only using that little ? ;o)

  6. Thank you Katie for your reply. I will go check out the site you suggested and see if I can figure out the amount of each essential oil to use in my soap. I know you have to be very careful using some essential oils like clove, so hesitate to figure this out on my own.

  7. To make Thieves blend cold process soap, how much eucalyptus, clove bud, cinnamon leaf, rosemary and lemon would I to use to make it? If you can tell me, it would be greatly appreciated.

      1. Thank you Katie for your reply. I will go check out the site you suggested and see if I can figure out the amount of each essential oil to use in my soap. I know you have to be very careful using some essential oils like clove, so hesitate to figure this out on my own.

  8. Hi.

    Just love this simple but beautiful soap. What did you use to color it so pretty, and how much?
    Thanks, Jeanette

    1. I would love to try your soap recipe. Are you using regular coconut oil that is solid when cool or fractured coconut oil that is liquid form? Thanks in advance!

  9. And is it ABSOLUTELY necessary to use lye. Or is there a substitute for it. I just can’t find a place around me that sells it and I never have money on my card to order some. And still don’t know where I would go to get it online.

    1. hi marshell,

      yes its absolutely necessary use lye. without it, you’ll just have a pot of oils. you can get it on amazon, here: https://amzn.to/2ULtDZW

      sometimes hardware stores will carry it labeled as a drain cleaner. you’ll need to check the label and make sure it says 99% or 100% lye (aka sodium hydroxide).

  10. I love your recipe. I am just looking for an alternative to using palm oil, due to deforestation to make room for palm oil plantations and our endangered Orangutan population is disappearing at an alarming rate. Could you give me some substitution ideas, please? I try to avoid any food or cosmetics that use palm oil for that reason. I really appreciate all your great ideas.

    1. Water is somewhat flexible in a soap recipe. It doesn’t really affect the finished product. Less water will just mean that it cures faster (called “a water discount”). Just go with an amount in the middle if you don’t have a preference.

  11. if you are putting the soap through saponification in the oven, it should be ready to use right away.. ?
    thanks for sharing ! excellent recipe..
    “Substitutions for Mango Butter in Soap When we take a look at the fatty acid profile chart, you can sort it by stearic acid or oleic acid to find substitutes. You can substitute mango butter with another butter such as shea, cocoa or even kokum. Soap Recipes Using Mango Butter “

    1. Hi Lisa, I know that its fully saponified after it gels… but for some reason it seems to last longer for me if it cures a few weeks? Not sure if that’s my imagination but I always say to wait to use it, just to be sure! 🙂

      1. I was just curious because I’m new at this and I didn’t know what is 3T for the scent or oils you can put in.

    2. If you want to do by the oven you call it « hot process ». You bake soap at 50 degrees during 3 hours. After, you let your soap stand without heat for 24 hours. Your soap is ready to use but soft. Wait about one week and more to harden…

  12. I love how each different kind of oil is being mixed in appropriate in order to make some good and unique kind of soap. I hope there won’t be any kind of problem involved after adding shea butter to it. Because the oil is all about conditioning while shea butter ensure our skin remain soft.Check out organic bath and body products.

    1. Hello Katie,

      I have a question, Great video by the way!! Can’t wait to try this recipe. I would like to add half water & half goat’s milk to this recipe for my 10 inch mold. Just to add a little richness. Do I just do 5 oz water & 5 oz of the goat’s milk? And does the lye amount change since adding the milk?
      Rhanks